The neighbourhoods of Madrid

Puerta del Sol is the centre of Madrid, with Kilometre Zero, the Bear and Strawberry Tree statue and the main metro hub. Gran Vía runs north-west from here, lined with early 20th-century buildings, theatres and shops. It is busy day and night. Walk Calle Preciados for shops and try chocolate con churros at San Ginés. Keep a hand on your bag in the crowds.

Sights: Puerta del Sol (Kilometre Zero, Bear and Strawberry Tree), Gran Vía, Chocolatería San Ginés (chocolate con churros), Círculo de Bellas Artes rooftop, Royal Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando, Descalzas Reales Monastery, Chocolatería Valor (Postigo de San Martín), Chocolatería 1902, El Corte Inglés Callao

🍽️ Restaurants: 7 · ☕ Breakfast: 1 · 🌙 Evening out: 9

This is the old Habsburg heart of Madrid, with the Plaza Mayor, the Plaza de la Villa, the Almudena Cathedral and the Royal Palace. The streets are narrow and historic, and the squares are calm early in the morning. Visit the Mercado de San Miguel for a snack, then walk to Plaza de Oriente and the Sabatini Gardens. Allow time for the Royal Palace, which is large.

Sights: Plaza Mayor, Mercado de San Miguel, Royal Palace (Palacio Real), Almudena Cathedral, Plaza de Oriente, Royal Collections Gallery, Campo del Moro Gardens

🍽️ Restaurants: 9 · 🌙 Evening out: 3

The Barrio de las Letras, around Calle Huertas and Plaza de Santa Ana, was home to Cervantes and Lope de Vega and is full of bars and terraces. Just east, the Paseo del Prado holds the Prado, Thyssen and Reina Sofía museums, with the Botanical Garden and Atocha station nearby. It is lively in the evening around Santa Ana and calmer by the museums. Pick one or two museums a day rather than all three.

Sights: Prado Museum, Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, Reina Sofía Museum (Guernica), Barrio de las Letras (Huertas), Royal Botanical Garden, Plaza de Cibeles & CentroCentro (Palacio de Cibeles), Railway Museum (Museo del Ferrocarril), Mirador Madrid (CentroCentro, Cibeles Palace), Madrid Planetarium, CaixaForum Madrid

🍽️ Restaurants: 9 · ☕ Breakfast: 5 · 🌙 Evening out: 11

The Retiro Park, with its lake, rowing boats and Crystal Palace, is where Madrid goes for a walk, especially on Sundays. The Puerta de Alcalá marks its edge, and the Salamanca district beyond has wide streets, smart shops along Calle Serrano and the National Archaeological Museum. It is quiet in the evening. The Bernabéu stadium is further north on the Castellana, a metro ride away.

Sights: Retiro Park (lake, Crystal Palace), Puerta de Alcalá, Santiago Bernabéu stadium tour, National Museum of Natural Sciences, National Archaeological Museum, Lázaro Galdiano Museum, Faunia, Plaza Mahou (Bernabéu brewery), Calle Serrano (Golden Mile)

🍽️ Restaurants: 10 · ☕ Breakfast: 8 · 🌙 Evening out: 1

La Latina is known for the Cava Baja, a street of tapas bars that fills up on Sundays after the El Rastro flea market, which runs through the neighbourhood in the morning. Lavapiés to the east is more mixed and multicultural, with small theatres, street art and cheap restaurants from many countries. Both are best on foot and lively into the night. Go to El Rastro early, before the crowds.

Sights: El Rastro flea market (Sundays), La Latina & Cava Baja, Basilica of San Francisco el Grande, Matadero Madrid, Mercado de San Fernando, Taberna Antonio Sánchez

🍽️ Restaurants: 12 · ☕ Breakfast: 3 · 🌙 Evening out: 1

Malasaña and Chueca, on either side of Gran Vía's northern end, are the neighbourhoods for independent shops, cafés, vintage clothes and nightlife. Malasaña is alternative and centred on Plaza del Dos de Mayo; Chueca is the LGBT quarter, with the Mercado de San Antón and the Museo del Romanticismo. They are quiet by day and lively from the evening, especially at weekends. Dinner starts late, so book for after 21:00.

Sights: Malasaña, Mercado de San Antón, Mercado de San Ildefonso, Bodega de la Ardosa, Museum of Romanticism, Madrid History Museum, Calle Fuencarral

🍽️ Restaurants: 5 · ☕ Breakfast: 3 · 🌙 Evening out: 4

Plaza de España is the western edge of the centre, with the Temple of Debod, an Egyptian temple moved stone by stone to the Parque del Oeste, and a good sunset view. The Teleférico cable car crosses to the huge Casa de Campo park, which has a zoo and an amusement park, while the Faro de Moncloa tower and the Museo de América are close by. Distances are bigger here, so use the metro.

Sights: Temple of Debod, Plaza de España, Faro de Moncloa, Cerralbo Museum, Museum of the Americas, Riu Plaza España 360º rooftop, Zoo Aquarium Madrid, Parque de Atracciones de Madrid, San Antonio de la Florida (Goya's frescoes)

🍽️ Restaurants: 3 · ☕ Breakfast: 4 · 🌙 Evening out: 7